Written by Emeric Lau
Andrew Gn takes over the Asian Civilisations Museum
Drawing inspiration from both the East and West, Andrew Gn’s (pronounced like the second syllable in “shogun”) couture-like creations are renowned for their intricate craftsmanship, including embroidery, beading, appliqué, and specially created prints on silk.
Titled Andrew Gn: Fashioning Singapore and the World, Senior Curator Jackie Yoong collaborated with the designer to secure a donation of some 160 garments for this retrospective exhibition, including pieces worn by international celebrities and royalty. The outcome is a veritable feast for the eyes and a showcase of how this Singaporean designer has adroitly designed collections that meld modernity and tradition, including aspects of Peranakan dressing.
Vibrant embroidery runs wild on this shift dress featuring a phoenix, flowers and mega mendung cloud motifs. (Photo by Emeric Lau)
The diagonal parang rusak pattern on the dress and skirt at left and centre comes from batik styles favoured by Javanese courts, while the decorative buttons of the floral brooches on the dress at right were inspired by kerosang. (Photo by Emeric Lau)
In particular, local visitors would recognise the diagonal parang rusak pattern that features on a couple of pieces, large floral brooches arranged down the front of some dresses that are reminiscent of the kerosang, and silhouettes that mimic the svelte figures of nyonyas in kebaya. Photos of Gn’s Peranakan grandmother and mother arrayed in baju panjang and sarong underscore his origins and early influence.
A coat with dragonflies, butterflies, and “pagoda” shoulders incorporates printed batik. (Photo by Emeric Lau)
Setting these tangible references aside, however, it is Gn’s masterful weaving of diverse sources, from impressionist Claude Monet, symbolist Gustav Klimt, maximalist Tony Duquette, to chinoiserie, Southeast Asian motifs, and an unabashed love of embellishment that have resulted in enthralling, timeless collections that revel in a multitude of cultural traditions.
A gown with landscapes and figures drawn from coromandel screens, typical of the chinoiserie movement, reflects a long and continuing dialogue between eastern art forms and western aesthetic tastes. (Photo by Emeric Lau)
In that sense, Gn truly embodies the Peranakan and Singaporean identity of melding the local with the global. His clothes celebrate our hybrid identities.
Andrew Gn: Fashioning Singapore and the World
Asian Civilisations Museum
Till 17 September 2023
Find out more:
https://www.nhb.gov.sg/acm/whats-on/exhibitions/andrew-gn-fashioning-singapore-and-the-world
